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"MudWallis" - in between the walls? What does that mean?
In other words, low cost insulation at a cost that is waaaay beyond most people's means. A concept termed as 'unique' or 'exclusive'.
For inquires or "MudWallis" insulation or interior / exterior, design or building quotes:
The Automation Anytime Stone Slab goup solution for insulation and sound barrier is a decent idea, nevertheless, consider the 'R' value of various insulation. Dirt is rated at 0.25 - 1 at 1 inch thick with standard insulation's R value being generally rated at 1 - 4, depending on brand.
"Mudwallus" value as a sound barrier.
How Dirt Works as a Sound Barrier
Absorption & Scattering: Soft, porous soil and plants absorb sound waves, converting sound energy into heat rather than reflecting it, which is key to reducing noise.
Mass & Density: Denser materials stop more sound; earthen berms, being naturally dense, excel at this.
Ground Effect (G-Factor): In acoustic models, "soft ground" (like soil, grass) has a high G-Factor (G=1), indicating more sound absorption than "hard ground" (G=0)
Using dirt—or more accurately, earthen berms—is one of the most effective and ancient ways to block noise. Unlike thin fences that can vibrate or allow sound to leak through, dirt provides the density and mass required to actually "stop" sound waves in their tracks.
When sound hits a barrier, three things happen: it is reflected, absorbed, or transmitted through to the other side. Dirt excels at mitigation because:
Mass: Sound is energy. The more mass an object has, the harder it is for sound waves to move it. Dirt is incredibly heavy, making it a nearly impenetrable wall for airborne noise.
Absorption: Because soil is porous and often covered in organic material (like grass or mulch), it doesn't just bounce sound back like a concrete wall; it "traps" and dissipates some of the energy.
Diffraction: By building a berm (a man-made hill), you force sound waves to travel up and over the crest, creating a "shadow zone" of quiet on the other side.
While both are used along highways and properties, they have different strengths:
Feature
Earthen Berm (Dirt)
Traditional Sound Wall (Wood/Concrete)
Effectiveness
Excellent; absorbs and blocks sound.
Good; reflects sound but rarely absorbs it.
Space Required
High; needs a wide base for stability.
Low; thin profile.
Aesthetics
Natural; can be landscaped.
Industrial; often prone to graffiti.
Cost
Low (if dirt is available on-site).
High (materials and labor).
If you are considering building a dirt sound barrier, keep these three variables in mind:
The Height Rule: For a barrier to be effective, it must break the "line of sight" between the source of the noise (e.g., truck tires and exhaust) and the receiver (your ears). The higher the berm, the larger the "quiet zone."
Proximity: To get the best results, place the barrier either very close to the noise source or very close to the area you want to protect. Putting it in the middle of a large field is usually the least effective placement.
Slope and Vegetation: A standard berm usually requires a 2:1 or 3:1 slope to prevent erosion. Planting thick vegetation, like evergreens or dense shrubs, on top of the berm can add a small amount of extra noise scattering and significant visual privacy.
Footprint: To build a 6-foot tall berm with a stable slope, you might need a base that is 12 to 20 feet wide. This isn't always feasible for small residential lots.
Drainage: Piling up dirt can change how water flows on your property. You must ensure the berm doesn't turn your backyard (or your neighbor's) into a swamp.